First Impressions: A Grand Arrival
Taormina was the very first stop on my Sicilian adventure—and it left an indelible mark. I had arrived on the back of an unforgettable train journey from Rome to Sicily, a travel experience in itself that set the tone for the magic to come. Visiting Taormina in winter, I found the town quiet, the air crisp, and the usual tourist buzz replaced by a soft, peaceful rhythm. I had the freedom to wander without crowds, take in the sea views in solitude, and enjoy the town’s magic in its most authentic form.
My arrival at the Taormina-Giardini station wasn’t without a little misadventure—I had initially missed the stop because I was too engrossed in the coastal scenery. Eventually, I made it back—and when I finally arrived at the Taormina-Giardini railway station, I was immediately enchanted by its Art Nouveau charm. Truly the most beautiful train station I’ve ever seen (and bonus trivia: it made an appearance in The Godfather Part III).
Even before stepping foot into town, I had a feeling Taormina would be something special.
That Room with The View
I booked a modest single room at a small hotel just a short walk from the historic center. After researching for hours on different booking sites and obsessively zooming in on room views, I crossed my fingers—and yes, the million-dollar sea view was exactly as promised. The balcony faced the Ionian Sea, and even though the room was tiny and involved dragging my luggage up a flight of stairs, I would do it all over again. I had spent hours zooming in on photos across different booking sites, especially the user-uploaded ones—that’s how I knew I had a good chance of scoring the exact view I’d been dreaming of.
Just a note: Taormina is not cheap. Even the more budget-friendly options can feel like a splurge. But sometimes, the view is worth the price.
Garden Calm and Sinatra in the Trees
A minute’s walk from my hotel led me to Villa Comunale di Taormina, a peaceful public garden perched with views to die for. The air carried soft Christmas music (Frank Sinatra, no less), and the calm felt like a gentle hug after a long journey. I saw the San Domenico Palace—the luxurious Four Seasons hotel featured in The White Lotus—resting proudly in the distance.
There were barely any tourists, and every turn gave me postcard-worthy vistas. It was a slow, cinematic start to the day—and I was here for it.
A Town That Slowly Wakes
As I moved closer to the town center, Taormina began to wake up. Shopkeepers swept storefronts, delivery men carried crates of fresh produce, and the energy slowly shifted from calm to quietly buzzing.
I wandered toward Piazza IX Aprile, the beating heart of Taormina. The black-and-white checkerboard tiles I’d seen in photos now lay under my feet. Music filled the square. Locals and tourists mingled with gelato in hand. And—important detail—there’s a discreet public restroom nearby (you’ll thank me when you need it!).
Finally, a Proper Meal
After surviving on cookies during my train ride, I was more than ready for a proper meal. Sicily is known for Pasta alla Norma, a dish of pasta, tomato sauce, and eggplant. I found a quiet spot just off the square. Despite being empty (usually a red flag), hunger won out—and luckily, the dish was a comforting and tasty introduction to Sicilian cuisine. Paired with a glass of white wine, it hit the spot. Just remember: if you’re drinking, know where the restrooms are. That glass caught up with me quick!
Slow Wanders and Golden Light
The magic of Taormina is in its pace. After Rome’s whirlwind itinerary, Taormina invited me to slow down. I wandered without purpose, poking into artisan shops, admiring ceramics and jewelry, and breathing in sea air that somehow felt purer.
Though I skipped the beach (it was winter, after all), I had my own little front-row seat to the horizon from my balcony. It’s this slower pace that made Taormina in winter feel even more intimate. The sunset was muted, thanks to overcast skies, but the view of the sky meeting the sea was still breathtaking. I caught a faint glimpse of Mount Etna, shrouded in clouds, teasing a more dramatic reveal.
Evening Cravings and Sicilian Comfort
There’s a special kind of comfort to exploring Taormina in winter, when the streets are calm and the evening lights cast a warm glow. As night fell, I stepped out again in search of my first arancino—a deep-fried rice ball that’s practically a Sicilian rite of passage. I found one near the main street, savored its rich filling, and even tried to befriend a cat hanging outside the shop (she wasn’t into it, but I appreciated her Sicilian aloofness).
Morning Light on the Mountain
I woke up early to watch the sun rise over Taormina. Even in the blue haze of twilight, Mount Etna was already visible—clear and commanding on the horizon. As the sun slowly emerged, the Ionian Sea began to reflect its golden hue. I sat on the balcony, tea in hand, soaking in the stillness of the moment. One of those quiet, grateful memories you tuck away forever.
Granita for Breakfast? Yes, Please
One of the best things about Taormina in winter is that you can enjoy its most iconic experiences without waiting in long lines or fighting for tables. No trip to Taormina is complete without granita from Bam Bar. This spot is legendary—and for good reason. I arrived early—I believe I was the second customer that day—and snagged a seat before the rush. I ordered a mix of raspberry and orange granita, paired with a soft Sicilian brioche bun and a cup of tea. You tear a small piece of the bun to scoop up the granita and enjoy that tarty, cool sweetness—refreshing and unexpectedly satisfying for breakfast. The best way I can describe it? Like frozen fruit purée turned into delicate, bright-tasting shaved ice, topped with a swirl of cream. It might sound like dessert, but this is legit breakfast here, and I wasn’t complaining. If you plan to go, get there before 9:30 AM—by the time I left, every seat was taken.
The Theatre That Made Time Stand Still
My second order of the day was the Ancient Greek Theatre (Teatro Antico di Taormina). One of the best-preserved ancient theatres in Sicily—and let’s be honest, she knows she’s a stunner. The whole place carries the layered fingerprints of time, with Greek bones and Roman upgrades, evidence of the many hands—and heavy boots—that have shaped Sicily’s story. This island has been claimed, renamed, and rearranged more times than anyone’s keeping track.
Perched dramatically on a hillside, the stage wall ruins part in the middle like an ancient stone curtain—just in time to reveal Mount Etna smoldering in the distance, as if she’s the true star of the show.
The view is so spectacular it nearly steals the spotlight from the stage. Yet this place isn’t all crumbled grandeur—it’s still alive, still hosting concerts, operas, film festivals. It can seat up to 5,000 people, which is wild to imagine. All those souls, all those nights under the stars. You can almost hear the echoes if you stand still long enough.
With the theatre perched so high you almost get a 360-degree view of everything around you. The vistas? Plentiful. I took a thousand photos, none of which quite captured how it felt to just be there. Ancient stones underfoot, that gentle sea breeze, and the kind of quiet that makes you think of all the performances and lives that passed through this place before you. It’s the kind of spot that makes you pause, squint into the distance, and mutter something profound like, “Wow,” before realizing you’ve been standing there for fifteen minutes doing absolutely nothing—and loving it.
Eventually, the moment passed. I took one last look, let the view settle into memory, and knew it was time to move on to the next town.
Why Visit Taormina in Winter
Most people picture Taormina in the summer sun, but visiting in winter reveals a quieter, more contemplative version of the town. With fewer crowds, you can stroll its charming streets at your own pace, enjoy discounted rates on sea-view stays, and soak in peaceful moments without the hustle. The golden light hits differently, the air feels clearer, and places like the Ancient Theatre or Piazza IX Aprile feel more personal. It’s a moodier, softer Mediterranean—and a deeply rewarding one if you’re seeking calm over chaos.
Final Thoughts
Taormina surprised me in all the right ways. For a place that often draws luxury travelers and summer crowds, I found a slice of serenity in its winter stillness. With just one night, I saw how the town shines without trying—through its views, its food, its layered history, and its quiet confidence. I came for the scenery and the cinema-level romance of the town, but I left with something more lasting: a memory of calm, beauty, and belonging, even for a solo traveler passing through. If you’re seeking beauty without the buzz, Taormina in winter is the perfect introduction to Sicily’s softer side.
Plan Your Own Day in Taormina
Visits
- Villa Comunale di Taormina – a peaceful garden with panoramic views. Map
- Piazza IX Aprile – the scenic heart of the town. Map
- Teatro Antico di Taormina – ancient Greek theatre with epic Etna views. Depending on the time of year you go, you might want to opt to get these Skip-the-line tickets. (This one comes with Audio guide)
- Chiesa Madonna della Rocca – a small church built into the rock, with spectacular views and a scenic LONG stairway walk from town. Best at sunrise or sunset. It was on my list, but I just couldn’t find the time to fit it into my short itinerary. Map
- Isola Bella – a tiny, picturesque island with pebble beaches, sea grottos, and a nature reserve. Walkable from shore at low tide. Best visited in beach season. Map
Shop
- Browse artisan ceramic shops and jewelry boutiques along Corso Umberto.
- Look out for locally made goods—especially hand-painted tiles and Sicilian pottery.
- Mara’s Handmade – a colorful shop selling leather handbags. I was pulled in because I’m a sucker for things arranged in spectrum—it was like walking into a rainbow. I came away with gifts from here. Not too pricey either. Map
Eat
- Rosticceria Da Cristina – where I got my first arancino. They also serve pizza and lasagnas, and everything looked delicious. Map
- Don’t miss breakfast at Bam Bar—get the granita with brioche. Map
Stay
- Hotel Elios Tao – This is the little hotel I stayed in, just a short walk away from the town centre.
Getting There
From the Train Station: After arriving at Taormina-Giardini, hop on the Interbus to reach the town center. Visit interbus.it for timetables, and purchase tickets from the driver. The journey to the Bus Terminal on Via Luigi Pirandello takes just 10–15 minutes. And then another 10 minutes or more to walk to the town centre.
Alternatively, you can take a taxi right outside the station—they’ll take you directly to your hotel. I paid 20 euros (yes, it’s expensive, but after my little misadventure, I wanted to leave the remaining journey in the hands of someone else).
