My eyes opened to the sounds of the squeal of train wheels on tracks, followed by the light hum of the motors. Distinct voices can be heard outside my window. I am on the train from Rome to Sicily. I checked my location on Google Maps and found us stopped in Villa San Giovanni. This is where it happens. I peered out the window and saw who those voices belonged to: a group of men in neon yellow vests at work. It’s 6:30 am and the surroundings are still veiled in darkness, save for the bright spotlights of the ferry.
The progress is slow but steady. The train is split into two parts as it loads onto the ferry. I get off the train and follow the arrows to see what’s up on deck. It’s still dawn. The cold breeze grazes my cheeks. The ferry sets off from mainland Italy and slowly sails across the Strait of Messina.
The iconic gilded statue of the Stele della Madonna della Lettera (Our Lady of the Letter Monument) stands tall greeting you as the ferry sails past into Messina Port, “Vos et ipsam civitatem benedicimus” inscribed at its base. “I bestow my benediction upon you and your city”. Inhaling deeply from the ocean breeze, a surge of anticipation courses through my entire being, fueled by the promise of what lies ahead.
It is a 20-minute sail before we are all asked to return to our cabins. And in a matter of minutes, we are finally in Sicily. I am finally in Sicily.
I mill about my cabin shared with three other women. We are given a modest breakfast of cookies and juice. The train lingers at Messina station, a prolonged pause before resuming its journey. My attention has been absorbed by the coastal panorama unfolding outside the window, the day gradually brightening. As the train halts again, I belatedly realise I haven’t been attuned to the intercom. A swift check on my phone reveals our current location: Taormina-Giardini station. Swiftly collecting my belongings, I hustle to the door as it inches to a close. The conductor with his limited English throws his hands up in the air at my blunder when I tell him, this was my stop. He informs me there’s another 8 minutes until the subsequent stop, where I can disembark and catch the returning train.
Welcome to my Sicilian adventure.
Practical info
Rome and Sicily are approximately 494 kilometers apart, a distance that can be traversed by air, land, or sea. Many travelers prefer the efficiency of air travel, with flights taking around 1 hour to Palermo or 1 hour and 20 minutes to Catania. Alternatively, ferries offer another mode of transportation, albeit taking approximately 14 hours and 30 minutes. For a unique and affordable experience, I opted for the 11-hour sleeper train, which provided a comfortable journey to Taormina, Sicily on the east coast (with the train ending in Syracuse), or a stop in Cefalu on the west coast with the final destination being Palermo.
From Roma Termini station, there are four direct trains bound for either the east or west coast of Sicily throughout the day: two in the morning and two overnight. Opting for the 11-hour overnight journey not only saved me the costs of a hotel room but also provided a unique travel experience. Day trains offer two classes to choose from, while overnight trains offer various cabin configurations ranging from single to four beds. Although I initially intended to book a single bed cabin, they were quickly taken, leaving me with the option of a Women Only cabin for four. Reservations can be made through the Trenitalia website or app up to four months in advance, but bookings for dates after mid-December, typically open two months before. Booking early ensures cheaper prices. While the Trenitalia app wasn’t available on the Singapore app store, Trenìt! served as a reliable alternative, particularly for checking live train timetables.
I embarked from Roma Termini station, the primary railway hub in Rome. It’s crucial to validate your ticket before boarding; green validation machines are conveniently located throughout the station. Failure to do so could result in a hefty fine. While meals are limited onboard to a small breakfast/snack and a bottle of water, you can purchase food from the station’s numerous restaurants before departure. Do note that most eateries and shops close by 10 pm, except for Mercato Centrale, a food hall open until midnight.
The cabin, albeit small and somewhat cramped, was functional. It featured plug sockets for charging devices, and bedding was provided in a clean and sanitized manner. Despite the winter chill, the well-insulated windows maintained a comfortable indoor temperature. While sleeping on a moving train may not suit everyone, I’ve grown accustomed to it, having previously slept on a sleeper train from Hanoi to Lao Cai (Sapa) years ago. This journey was particularly memorable, as it’s one of the last two remaining train routes in Europe where trains are shunted onto ferries, the other being from Berlin, Germany to Malmö, Sweden.
Train travel presents an appealing option for budget-conscious travelers. While flights may offer occasional good deals, especially off-peak, high-season fares can be less favorable. Train ticket prices typically start from €39.90 onwards, particularly advantageous when booked in advance. What particularly appealed to me about the overnight train was its ability to maximize my three days in Rome. With the train journey taking place overnight, I could fully explore the city’s sights from morning till night before departing for my next destination.
