First Impressions: A Grand Arrival
Taormina was the first stop on my Sicilian adventure. I’d just completed the overnight train journey from Rome to Sicily, which was an experience in itself. Visiting Taormina in winter meant the town was quiet, the air was crisp and I could wander without having to fight my way through crowds. I had the sea views mostly to myself, which wasn’t a bad way to begin Sicily.
My arrival at Taormina-Giardini railway station wasn’t without a misadventure. I’d missed my stop because I was too busy looking at the coastline and had to catch another train back. When I finally stepped onto the platform, slightly flustered, I was immediately taken by the station’s Art Nouveau interiors. It might be the most beautiful train station I’ve ever seen. Bonus trivia: it also appeared in The Godfather Part III.
Even before I reached the town itself, Taormina was making a very good first impression.
That Room with The View
I booked a modest single room at a small hotel a short walk from the historic centre. Before booking, I’d obsessively zoomed in on the room views across different websites, especially the user-uploaded photos. I crossed my fingers and hoped for the best.
Thankfully, the million-dollar sea view was exactly as promised. My balcony faced the Ionian Sea, and even though the room was tiny and I had to drag my luggage up a flight of stairs, I’d happily do it all over again.
Taormina isn’t cheap. Even the more budget-friendly options can feel like a splurge, but sometimes the view is worth paying for.
Garden Calm and Sinatra in the Trees
Villa Comunale di Taormina (Taormina Municipal Gardens) was only about a minute’s walk from my hotel. Christmas music drifted through the gardens, including Frank Sinatra, while I wandered between the trees and looked out over the sea.
In the distance, I could see San Domenico Palace, now a Four Seasons hotel and one of the filming locations for The White Lotus, with Mount Etna behind it. There were barely any other tourists around. Every few steps seemed to open onto another view of the coast, so I took my time.
A Town That Slowly Wakes
As I walked towards the centre, Taormina began to wake up. Shopkeepers swept outside their stores, delivery men carried crates of produce and more people gradually appeared on the streets.
I wandered into Piazza IX Aprile, with the black-and-white checkerboard tiles I’d seen so many times in photos now beneath my feet. Music played in the square while locals and tourists walked around with gelato in hand.
Also, an important practical detail: there’s a discreet public toilet nearby. You’ll thank me later.
Finally, a Proper Meal
After surviving on cookies during the train ride, I was more than ready for a proper meal. For my first lunch in Sicily, I ordered Pasta alla Norma, one of Sicily’s best-known dishes. Made with pasta, tomato sauce, eggplant and ricotta salata, it originated in Catania and would become a significant dish for me throughout my time in Sicily.
I found a quiet restaurant just off the square. It was completely empty, which would usually make me hesitate, but I was too hungry to care. Fortunately, the pasta was warm, comforting and exactly what I needed. Paired with a glass of white wine, it was a very satisfying introduction to Sicilian food.
Just remember that if you’re drinking, it helps to know where the nearest toilet is. That glass caught up with me fairly quickly.
Slow Wanders and Golden Light
After the rush of Rome, I liked not having much of a plan. I wandered through the streets, stopped at artisan shops and looked at the ceramics and jewellery in the windows.
I skipped the beach because it was winter, but the balcony gave me my own front-row seat to the horizon. The sunset was muted behind the clouds, although watching the sea disappear into the grey sky was still beautiful. Mount Etna came in and out of view behind the cloud cover.
Evening Cravings and Sicilian Comfort
There’s a special kind of comfort in exploring Taormina in winter, when the streets are calm and the evening lights glow warmly. As night fell, I ventured out for my first arancino, a deep-fried rice ball filled with ragu and gooey cheese, practically a Sicilian rite of passage.
I found mine at Rosticceria Da Cristina, near the main street, and savoured every bite. I also tried to befriend a shop cat. She wasn’t having it, but I admired her Sicilian aloofness.
Morning Light on the Mountain
I woke up early to watch the sunrise. Even in the twilight haze, Mount Etna was already visible across the way. Even before the sun appeared, Mount Etna was already visible across the water. As it grew lighter, the Ionian Sea began to shimmer gold.
Tea in hand, I sat on the balcony and watched it all happen. It’s one of the clearest memories I have of Taormina.
Granita for Breakfast? Yes, Please.
One of the best things about visiting Taormina in winter was not having to queue for everything. No fighting for seats. Just me and a handful of locals.
I went to Bam Bar for its famous granita and arrived early enough to get a table before it filled up. I ordered raspberry and orange granita with a soft Sicilian brioche bun and tea.
You tear off a piece of brioche and use it to scoop up the granita. It’s somewhere between shaved ice and frozen fruit purée, served with whipped cream. Bright, fruity and completely acceptable as breakfast.
If you want a table, go early. By the time I left at around 9.30 a.m., every seat was taken.
The Theatre That Made Time Stand Still
My second stop of the day was the Ancient Greek Theatre (Teatro Antico di Taormina). One of the best-preserved ancient theatres in Sicily, and let’s be honest, she knows she’s a stunner. The whole place carries the layered fingerprints of time, with Greek bones and Roman upgrades, evidence of the many hands, and heavy boots that have shaped Sicily’s story. This island has been claimed, renamed, and rearranged more times than anyone’s keeping track.
Perched dramatically on a hillside, the stage wall ruins part in the middle like an ancient stone curtain, just in time to reveal Mount Etna smouldering in the distance, as if she’s the true star of the show.
The view is so spectacular it nearly steals the spotlight from the stage. Yet this place isn’t all crumbled grandeur. It’s still alive, still hosting concerts, operas, and film festivals. It can seat up to 5,000 people, which is wild to imagine. All those souls, all those nights under the stars. You can almost hear the echoes if you stand still long enough.
Because it sits so high above the town, you get views in almost every direction. I took a ridiculous number of photos, none of which quite captured how it felt to be there with the ancient stones underfoot, the sea in the distance and hardly anyone else around.
It’s the kind of place that makes you stop, stare into the distance and mutter something profound like, “Wow”, before realising you’ve been standing in the same spot for 15 minutes doing absolutely nothing and loving it.
Eventually, I took one last look and headed back. It was time to move on to the next town.
Why Visit Taormina in Winter
Most people picture Taormina in summer, but I loved seeing it in winter. The streets were quieter, accommodation was more affordable than it would’ve been during peak season and I could spend as long as I wanted at the gardens and Ancient Theatre without being surrounded by crowds.
The weather wasn’t perfect. The sky was overcast at times and Mount Etna kept disappearing behind the clouds. But I didn’t mind. The quieter atmosphere was a large part of what made my short stay so enjoyable.
Even Bam Bar was manageable first thing in the morning, although the tables had filled by the time I left.
Final Thoughts
I only had one night in Taormina, but I managed to see the gardens, wander around the historic centre, eat my first arancino, have granita for breakfast and spend the morning at the Ancient Theatre.
Taormina is known for luxury, summer crowds and cinematic views. In winter, I found a much quieter version of it. For me, it was a very good way to begin Sicily.
Plan Your Own Day in Taormina
Visits
- Villa Comunale di Taormina (Taormina Municipal Gardens): Peaceful public gardens with panoramic views over the coast.
- Piazza IX Aprile (9 April Square): The checker-tiled square in the centre of Taormina.
- Teatro Antico di Taormina (Ancient Theatre of Taormina): An ancient Greek and Roman theatre with views towards Mount Etna. Depending on the season, you may want to book these Skip-the-line tickets. (This one comes with Audio guide)
- Chiesa Madonna della Rocca (Church of Our Lady of the Rock): A small church built into the rock above Taormina. It’s reached by a steep staircase from town. This was on my list, but I couldn’t fit it into my short itinerary. Map
- Riserva Naturale Isola Bella (Isola Bella Nature Reserve): A small island below Taormina, connected to the shore by a narrow strip of beach. It’s better suited to warmer weather. Map
Eat
- Rosticceria Da Cristina: Where I had my first arancino. It also serves pizza, lasagne and other casual Sicilian food. Map
- Bam Bar: Known for granita served with brioche. Go early if you want a better chance of getting a table, and check its current opening days when visiting outside summer. Map
Shop
- Corso Umberto: Taormina’s main pedestrian street, lined with boutiques and shops selling ceramics, jewellery and other locally made goods.
- Mara’s Handmade: A colourful shop selling leather handbags. I was pulled in because I’m a sucker for anything arranged by colour. I came away with several gifts, and they weren’t too expensive either. Map
Stay
- Hotel Elios Tao: The small hotel where I stayed. The rooms are modest, but some have sea-view balconies, and the hotel is a short walk from the historic centre.
For more places to stay, eat and visit without spending a fortune, see my Taormina on a Budget guide.
Getting to Taormina
By Air
The nearest airport is Catania Fontanarossa Airport (Aeroporto di Catania-Fontanarossa), approximately 65 km from Taormina.
- By Direct Bus:
Interbus operates a direct coach service from the airport to Taormina Bus Terminal (Via Luigi Pirandello). The journey takes about 90 minutes. Tickets can be purchased at the airport or in advance via interbus.it.
This is the easiest, most direct way if you’re carrying luggage. - By Taxi or Private Transfer:
A taxi from the airport to Taormina costs around €90–€100 and takes roughly an hour. Shared shuttle services and private transfers can also be arranged online for more comfort.
By Train
If you’re arriving by train, you’ll get off at Stazione di Taormina-Giardini (Taormina-Giardini Station), which is down by the coast rather than in the hilltop town.
- I personally arrived in Taormina by train, after taking the famous direct train from Rome to Sicily, a unique ride where the train boards a ferry across the Strait of Messina. You can read all about that incredible journey here.
- From Catania Centrale Station:
Frequent regional trains run from Catania Centrale to Taormina-Giardini. The trip takes about 50 minutes and offers beautiful coastal views. You can check schedules and buy tickets via Trenitalia. - From Taormina-Giardini Station into Town:
- By Bus: Take the Interbus to Taormina’s bus terminal on Via Luigi Pirandello. Tickets can be bought from the driver. The ride takes 10–15 minutes. From the terminal, it’s about a 10-minute walk to the town center.
- By Taxi: Taxis wait outside the station and will take you directly to your accommodation. I paid €20, which is expensive, but worth it after my travel mishap and suitcase haul.
By Bus
If you’re traveling from Catania city, taking the Interbus is a scenic and straightforward option.
- Buses leave regularly from Catania Centrale Station (Stazione Centrale di Catania) and Catania Airport.
- The ride takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes and drops you at the Taormina Bus Terminal (Terminal Bus Taormina), which is a short walk to Corso Umberto and the town center.
- Check current schedules and book tickets at interbus.it.
Keep Exploring Sicily
If you enjoyed this story, you might also like:
- New Year in Catania – My Winter Trip to Sicily’s Black City
- Why I Fell in Love with Ortigia, Sicily – A Solo Travel Guide & Story
- Winter in Palermo – A Travel Story of Rain and Resilience
Along the way, I squeezed in unforgettable side trips to places like Ragusa, Noto, Modica, Mount Etna, Cefalù, and the Valley of the Temples. Each one added a different color to the Sicilian palette.