First Impressions: A Grand Arrival
Taormina was the very first stop on my Sicilian adventure—and it left an indelible mark. I had just completed an unforgettable train journey from Rome to Sicily, a travel experience in itself that set the tone for the magic to come. Visiting Taormina in winter, I found the town quiet, the air crisp, and the usual tourist buzz replaced by a soft, peaceful rhythm. I had the freedom to wander without crowds, take in the sea views in solitude, and experience the town’s magic in its most authentic form.
My arrival at Taormina-Giardini railway station wasn’t without a misadventure—I initially missed my stop, too engrossed in the coastal views. Eventually, I made it back, and when I finally stepped onto the platform, I was immediately enchanted by the Art Nouveau charm of what might just be the most beautiful train station I’ve ever seen. Bonus trivia: it made an appearance in The Godfather Part III.
Even before setting foot into town, I had a feeling Taormina would be something special.
That Room with The View
I booked a modest single room at a small hotel just a short walk from the historic center. After obsessively zooming in on room views across booking sites (especially the user-uploaded ones), I crossed my fingers—and yes, the million-dollar sea view was exactly as promised. The balcony faced the Ionian Sea, and even though the room was tiny and involved dragging my luggage up a flight of stairs, I would do it all over again.
Just a note: Taormina is not cheap. Even the more “budget-friendly” options can feel like a splurge. But sometimes, the view is worth the price.
Garden Calm and Sinatra in the Trees
A minute’s walk from my hotel led me to Villa Comunale di Taormina (Taormina Municipal Gardens)—a peaceful public garden perched with views to die for. The air carried soft Christmas music (Frank Sinatra, no less), and the calm felt like a gentle hug after a long journey. I spotted the San Domenico Palace (now a Four Seasons hotel and The White Lotus filming location) resting proudly in the distance.
There were barely any tourists, and every turn gave me postcard-worthy vistas. It was a slow, cinematic start to the day—and I was here for it.
A Town That Slowly Wakes
As I moved toward the town center, Taormina began to stir. Shopkeepers swept storefronts, delivery men carried crates of produce, and the energy slowly shifted from serene to gently buzzing.
I wandered into Piazza IX Aprile—the beating heart of Taormina. The black-and-white checkerboard tiles I’d seen in photos now stretched beneath my feet. Music filled the square. Locals and tourists mingled with gelato in hand. And—important detail—there’s a discreet public restroom nearby. You’ll thank me later.
Finally, a Proper Meal
After surviving on cookies during the train ride, I was more than ready for a proper meal. Sicily is known for Pasta alla Norma, a dish of pasta, tomato sauce, and eggplant. I found a quiet spot just off the square. Despite being empty (usually a red flag), hunger won out—and luckily, the dish was a comforting, tasty intro to Sicilian cuisine. Paired with a glass of white wine, it hit the spot.
Just remember: if you’re drinking, know where the restrooms are. That glass caught up with me quick.
Slow Wanders and Golden Light
Taormina’s magic is in its pace. After Rome’s whirlwind, this town invited me to slow down. I wandered without purpose, poking into artisan shops, admiring ceramics and jewelry, breathing in sea air that somehow felt purer.
Though I skipped the beach (it was winter, after all), I had my own little front-row seat to the horizon from my balcony. The sunset was muted behind overcast skies, but the sea meeting the sky was still breathtaking. Mount Etna teased a reveal through the clouds.
Evening Cravings and Sicilian Comfort
There’s a special kind of comfort in exploring Taormina in winter, when the streets are calm and the evening lights glow warmly. As night fell, I ventured out for my first arancino—a deep-fried rice ball filled with ragu and gooey cheese, practically a Sicilian rite of passage. I found one near the main street, savored every bite, and even tried to befriend a shop cat (she wasn’t having it, but I admired her Sicilian aloofness).
Morning Light on the Mountain
I woke up early to watch the sunrise. Even in the twilight haze, Mount Etna was already visible—clear and commanding. As the sun emerged, the Ionian Sea shimmered gold. Tea in hand, I sat on the balcony, soaking in the stillness. One of those quiet, grateful memories you tuck away forever.
Granita for Breakfast? Yes, Please
One of the best perks of Taormina in winter: no lines. No fighting for seats. Just you and the locals.
I made my way to Bam Bar, famous for its granita. I arrived early—second customer of the day—and snagged a seat before the rush. I ordered raspberry and orange granita with a soft Sicilian brioche bun and tea. You tear off a bit of bun to scoop up the granita—bright, fruity, refreshing. Like shaved ice crossed with frozen fruit purée, topped with whipped cream. Legit breakfast. Get there before 9:30 AM—by the time I left, every seat was filled.
The Theatre That Made Time Stand Still
My second order of the day was the Ancient Greek Theatre (Teatro Antico di Taormina). One of the best-preserved ancient theatres in Sicily—and let’s be honest, she knows she’s a stunner. The whole place carries the layered fingerprints of time, with Greek bones and Roman upgrades, evidence of the many hands—and heavy boots—that have shaped Sicily’s story. This island has been claimed, renamed, and rearranged more times than anyone’s keeping track.
Perched dramatically on a hillside, the stage wall ruins part in the middle like an ancient stone curtain—just in time to reveal Mount Etna smoldering in the distance, as if she’s the true star of the show.
The view is so spectacular it nearly steals the spotlight from the stage. Yet this place isn’t all crumbled grandeur—it’s still alive, still hosting concerts, operas, and film festivals. It can seat up to 5,000 people, which is wild to imagine. All those souls, all those nights under the stars. You can almost hear the echoes if you stand still long enough.
With the theatre perched so high, you almost get a 360-degree view of everything around you. The vistas? Plentiful. I took a thousand photos, none of which quite captured how it felt to just be there—ancient stones underfoot, that gentle sea breeze, and the kind of quiet that makes you think of all the performances and lives that passed through this place before you.
It’s the kind of spot that makes you pause, squint into the distance, and mutter something profound like, “Wow,” before realizing you’ve been standing there for fifteen minutes doing absolutely nothing—and loving it.
Eventually, the moment passed. I took one last look, let the view settle into memory, and knew it was time to move on to the next town.
Why Visit Taormina in Winter
Most picture Taormina in summer, but winter offers a quieter, more soulful version. Fewer crowds. Discounted sea-view stays. Peaceful streets. Golden light that hits differently. A softer Mediterranean.
The Ancient Theatre, Piazza IX Aprile, the gardens, even breakfast at Bam Bar—they all feel more personal. If you seek calm over chaos, Taormina in winter delivers.
Final Thoughts
Taormina surprised me in all the right ways. Known for luxury and summer buzz, it revealed serenity and slow beauty in the off-season. With just one night, I saw a town that shines effortlessly—through views, food, history, and quiet confidence. I came for the scenery and the cinematic charm, but I left with a lasting memory of calm and connection.
If you’re looking for beauty without the bustle, Taormina in winter is the perfect intro to Sicily’s softer side.
Plan Your Own Day in Taormina
Visits
- Taormina Public Gardens (Villa Comunale di Taormina) – Peaceful with panoramic views. Map
- April 9th Square (Piazza IX Aprile) – The scenic, checker-tiled heart of the town. Map
- Ancient Theatre of Taormina (Teatro Antico di Taormina) – ancient Greek theatre with epic Etna views. Depending on the time of year you go, you might want to opt to get these Skip-the-line tickets. (This one comes with Audio guide)
- Church of Our Lady of the Rock (Chiesa Madonna della Rocca) – A tiny chapel built into the cliff with dramatic views. Best at sunrise or sunset. Steep stairway from town. It was on my list, but I just couldn’t find the time to fit it into my short itinerary. Map
- Isola Bella Nature Reserve – A small, picturesque island with pebble beaches and sea grottos. Walkable from shore at low tide. Best in warmer months. Map
Eat
- Da Cristina Deli (Rosticceria Da Cristina) – Where I got my first arancino. Classic spot for arancini, pizza, lasagn, and casual Sicilian comfort food. Map
- Bam Bar – Famous for granita and brioche breakfast. Arrive early to beat the rush. Map
Shop
- Corso Umberto – The main pedestrian street lined with artisan ceramics, jewelry, and boutiques.
- Look out for locally made goods—especially hand-painted tiles and Sicilian pottery.
- Mara’s Handmade – a colorful shop selling leather handbags. I was pulled in because I’m a sucker for things arranged in spectrum—it was like walking into a rainbow. I came away with gifts from here. Not too pricey either. Map
Stay
- Hotel Elios Tao – This is the little hotel I stayed in. Small hotel with modest rooms and sea-view balconies. A short walk from the town center.
More recommendations in my Taormina guide coming soon!
Getting There
By Air
The nearest airport to Taormina is Catania Fontanarossa International Airport (Aeroporto di Catania-Fontanarossa), about 65 km away. Here’s how to get to Taormina from there:
- By Direct Bus:
Interbus operates a direct coach service from the airport to Taormina Bus Terminal (Via Luigi Pirandello). The journey takes about 90 minutes. Tickets can be purchased at the airport or in advance via interbus.it.
This is the easiest, most direct way if you’re carrying luggage. - By Taxi or Private Transfer:
A taxi from the airport to Taormina costs around €90–€100 and takes roughly an hour. Shared shuttle services and private transfers can also be arranged online for more comfort.
By Train
If you’re arriving by train, you’ll likely disembark at Taormina-Giardini Station (Stazione di Taormina-Giardini).
- I personally arrived in Taormina by train, after taking the famous direct train from Rome to Sicily—a unique ride where the train boards a ferry across the Strait of Messina. You can read all about that incredible journey here.
- From Catania Centrale Station:
Frequent regional trains run from Catania Centrale to Taormina-Giardini. The trip takes about 50 minutes and offers beautiful coastal views. You can check schedules and buy tickets via Trenitalia. - From Taormina-Giardini Station into Town:
- By Bus: Take the Interbus to Taormina’s bus terminal on Via Luigi Pirandello. Tickets can be bought from the driver. The ride takes 10–15 minutes. From the terminal, it’s about a 10-minute walk to the town center.
- By Taxi: Taxis wait outside the station and will take you directly to your accommodation. I paid €20—expensive, but worth it after my travel mishap and suitcase haul.
By Bus
If you’re traveling from Catania city, taking the Interbus is a scenic and straightforward option.
- Buses leave regularly from Catania Centrale Station (Stazione Centrale di Catania) and Catania Airport.
- The ride takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes and drops you at the Taormina Bus Terminal (Terminal Bus Taormina), which is a short walk to Corso Umberto and the town center.
- Check current schedules and book tickets at interbus.it.
Keep Exploring Sicily
If you enjoyed this story, you might also like:
- New Year in Catania – My Winter Trip to Sicily’s Black City
- Why I Fell in Love with Ortigia, Sicily – A Solo Travel Guide & Story
- Winter in Palermo – A Travel Story of Rain and Resilience
Along the way, I squeezed in unforgettable side trips to places like Ragusa, Noto, Modica, Mount Etna, Cefalù, and the Valley of the Temples. Each one added a different color to the Sicilian palette.